Instructions: Soak the preserved fish in water to cover for 15 minutes; drain. Cut the fish into thin slices and remove any bones.

In a food processor or with a cleaver, coarsely chop the pork. Place it in a large bowl with the remaining patty ingredients and mix well. Spread the mixture evenly in a 9-inch glass pie pan. Top with the preserved fish, ginger, and 2 teaspoons of the green onions.

Place a steaming rack in a wok. Pour in water to just below the level of the rack and bring to a boil. Set the pie pan on the rack. Cover and steam over high heat until the pork is no longer pink (cut a slit to test), about 12 minutes. Sprinkle with remaining green onions before serving.

This recipe yields 4 to 6 servings.

Tip: The preserved fish I use comes from Hong Kong or Macao as whole fish about 6 to 10 inches long, in plastic wrappers. Some packages are labeled "salted fish." It has fermented slightly in the drying process, giving it a different flavor than Western-style salt cod or other salted fish. You may also find it packed in oil in jars, the only real substitute.

Comments: Some kids have warm memories of their moms kitchen smelling of sugar and spice. The wafting aroma that drew me to my Moms kitchen in double-quick time was fermenting fish steaming on a plump pork patty. It smell up the whole house, but when it was done, wow - it tasted good.

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