Instructions: What coq au vin is to the French and chili is to Texas, couscous is to Morocco. A steaming plate of it, covered with stewed meats and vegetables, is an essential portrait of Moroccan culture.

It is an indigenous dish created by indigenous people (the Berbers of northwest Africa) in a country with numerous outside influences. The survival of both couscous and its creators is a dual success story, weathering Arab invasions and European tugs-of-war.

Couscous has two meanings: tiny balls of semolina grain that are steamed, and a flavorful stew of the same name, and which is served over the cooked semolina.

In this case, were talking about the semolina. At its best, it is light, fluffy, and soaked with exotic spices, chicken, lamb, and vegetables from the bubbling stew. Though it is technically a pasta, couscous resembles grain and is often found in grains sections of cookbooks.

Couscous creators, the Berbers, are a non-Arab, tribal people native to northwest Africa, where they have lived since at least 1,600 BC. Surviving Roman, Arab, and European invasion and occupation over the last 2,000 years, the Berbers not only survived, but flourished: roughly 75 percent of the Moroccan population has full or partial Berber heritage.

Over the centuries the Berbers adapted new ideas and lifestyles without losing touch with their heritage. Couscous is living, steaming proof of that.

Just as the Berber origins are a mystery - there are few written records - the origin of couscous is shrouded in a similar cloud.

Although historians believe it was a Berber dish originally, they are not really sure when and how it came about. In its original preparation, it was simply served with butter, and as outside influences poured into Morocco many variations arose. Some believe its unique name comes from a verbal description of the hissing sound of the steaming grains.

Today, couscous is also open to many more interpretations. Sometimes it is served sweet with onions and raisins, while other dishes use spicy chili peppers. With some sugar or cinnamon, couscous can even be a dessert (try doing that with most types of pasta!)

Couscous has also expanded all over the world. Algeria, Tunisia, France, and even Brazil have created their own couscous variations. But in its traditional preparation, couscous (as a dish) is a true gastronomic delight.

Couscous is available in all supermarkets in an "instant" form.

While not as flavorful, if covered with a Moroccan stew, those varieties will work fine. Traditional couscous is prepared in a very laborious process that is not practical for most of us. It should be tried at least once however, as it contains texture and flavors true to Morocco.

Couscous is traditionally cooked in a double steamer called a couscousiere.

The lower part holds the simmering stew or water, while the top is a fine strainer that holds the couscous grains. For home use, any pan and strainer combination will work. If the strainer is not fine enough, line it with some cheesecloth. Do not worry about finding an appropriate lid, as couscous is never steamed with the lid on.

When used in a stew, as most Moroccan couscous is, the goal is to blend the couscous with the stews flavor. Instead of just using water, the grains are steamed directly over the stew (or tagine) with which they will be served. This allows the couscous to really soak up the flavors given off by the tagine; its the equivalent of pouring cooked pasta into the saute pan to marry the flavors.

If you would like to email yourself the recipe for later use, or share the recipe with your friends or family, enter the email addresses below and this recipe will be emailed to you and others as well.