Instructions: Pour oil into a 5- to 6-quart pan over medium-high heat; when hot, add onion and mushrooms and stir often until onion is limp and liquid has evaporated, 5 to 6 minutes. Add rice and stir until opaque, about 3 minutes.

Add wine and stir until its absorbed, 1 to 2 minutes. Add 4 1/2 cups broth and bring to a boil over high heat, stirring often. Reduce heat and, stirring often, simmer until rice is tender to bite, 15 to 20 minutes. If a creamier consistency is desired, stir in about 1/2 cup more broth. Stir in cheese, parsley, sage, tarragon, and thyme. Add salt and pepper to taste.

This recipe yields 8 cups; about 4 main-dish servings.

Comments: Use a combination of two or three types of mushrooms, such as black or yellow chanterelles, crimini, oyster, shiitake, or common. High-quality parmesan cheese is worth the expense in this dish. Garnish servings with curls of the cheese if desired.

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