Instructions: Make the stock and keep it warm over low heat.

Pour the porcini through a fine strainer and save the liquid to use later. (If the liquid is sandy, let the sand settle, then pour off the liquid.) Finely chop the porcini, discarding any pieces that are gritty or hard. Set aside.

Heat a soup pot, preferrably nonstick, until quite hot. Add the onions, 1/2 teaspoon salt, a few pinches of pepper, and 1/4 cup stock.

Saute the onions over medium heat until they begin to soften and release their juices, about 5 minutes, then add the porcini and half the garlic. Continue to cook over medium heat, gently scraping the pan with a wooden spoon to keep the onions from sticking as they caramelize. (Add a little stock if needed.) After about 25 minutes, the onions should be a rich golden brown.

While the onions are caramelizing, saute the shiitake and white mushrooms together in 2 separate batches. Heat the saute pan, then add half the white mushrooms, 1/4 teaspoon salt, and a few pinches of pepper. Add 1/4 cup water and saute over high heat. As the mushrooms cook, they will release their juices; then the juices will evaporate and the mushrooms will begin to sear. At this point theyll begin sticking to the pan, but dont stir them. Cook over high heat until theyre golden, then stir once and continue to sear for 1 to 2 minutes. Add half the shiitake mushrooms, half the remaining garlic, 2 tablespoons of sherry, and a splash of shoyu or soy sauce. Cook for about 1 minute, stirring as needed, until the shiitake mushrooms are tender. The mushrooms will be very dark and flavorful. Add a little stock if necessary to loosen them from the pan, then transfer them to a bowl.

Sear the second batch of mushrooms in exactly the same way, being sure to save all the flavorful pan juices.

Add 1/4 cup of the remaining sherry and the porcini liquid to the onions to deglaze the pan. Add the potatoes and 1 cup of stock, then cover the pot and cook over medium heat until the potatoes are soft, about 15 minutes. Puree in a blender or food processor until smooth, then return to the pot. (This puree gives the soup its rich base.) Add the mushrooms and remaining stock and cook for 20 to 30 minutes.

Stir in the fresh herbs just before serving, then season to taste with salt, pepper, and a splash of lemon juice.

Caramelized onions and dried porcini give this earthy soup complexity and depth. The mushroom essence comes from searing the mushrooms over
high heat with garlic, sherry, and a touch of soy. All of the flavors
come together in the rich mushroom broth, brightened with a splash of
lemon.

MAKES 8 CUPS

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