Instructions: Remove tough outer leaves of leeks and discard (or reserve for stock). Trim off roots and dark green tops of leaves, then cut leeks in two where the white meets green. Split white part lengthwise in half, then cut across into 1/3 inch slices. Do same with green half, removing any darker green parts and slicing only the light green parts. Place leeks in a pot of water and let soak briefly to remove any dirt, then lift them out and drain in a colander. Drain them well, or they will steam rather than saute.

Wipe mushrooms clean. Cut off tough parts of stems and discard. Slice mushrooms. Heat a 3- to 4-quart heavy pot over low heat and add diced bacon.

Once it has rendered a few tablespoons of fat, increase heat to medium and cook until bacon is crisp and golden brown. Pour off all but 1 tablespoon of bacon fat, leaving bacon in pot.

Add butter and garlic and cook for 30 seconds. Add leeks, mushrooms and tarragon, and saute, stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon, for 5 minutes.

Add lemon juice, stir well, and cook for 3 to 4 minutes more, until mushrooms are very soft.

Add potatoes and stock. Turn up heat, cover, bring to a boil, and cook vigorously for about 8 minutes, until potatoes are tender on the outside but still firm in the center. With your spoon, smash a few potato slices against the side of the pot and cook for 2 minutes more to release their starch. Remove from heat, stir in cream, and season the chowder with salt and pepper. If you are not serving chowder within the hour, let it cool a bit, then refrigerate; cover chowder after it has chilled completely. Otherwise, let it sit at room temperature for up to an hour, allowing flavors to meld.

When ready to serve, reheat chowder over low heat; dont let it boil. Ladle into cups and sprinkle with chopped parsley and minced chives.

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