Instructions: Discard the tough green parts from leeks; keeping root end intact, cut lengthwise to clean under running water [carefully get all the sand out] and then slice thinly crosswise).

Saute the leeks and garlic in olive oil over low heat till well softened.

Add the vermouth and bring to boil, add the parsley and the mussels. Cover tightly, lower heat to simmer, and cook until mussels open (5-8 minutes, maybe 10 if theyre quite large). Discard any that dont open.

Serves two as main course, four as appetizer.

Serving-2 options

1. Remove the mussels from the pot with tongs and dump into serving bowls, but save about 6 mussels for tomorrow. (Youre keeping the cooking liquid for tomorrow.) After dinner, strain the liquid for soup tomorrow.

The next day, reheat the mussel broth with a little heavy cream and taste-it may need to be diluted. Add cooked white rice and the remaining mussels.

Serves one as a main course or two as a starter.

2. Remove the mussels to soup plates with tongs and strain the liquid.

Return a little of the cooked vegetables (not much parsley) and 6-8 mussels to the liquid and puree (a hand-held stick blender works well); pour over the mussels and serve, with crusty bread to sop up the extra liquid.

Hardly anything easier than mussels. Commercial mussels are almost always farmed, which means you dont have to worry about getting grit out from inside, just rinse the outside (dump them in a colander and briefly rinse). If you find any with the beard still attached, pull it off (pliers is easiest). Check each mussel to make sure its alive-it should either be tightly closed or close (slowly and not necessarily tightly) when tapped. Discard any you think might be dead, any with cracked shells, and any empty shells. Around here mussels come in mesh bags, I guess about a quart, so thats the (rough) proportions here.

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