Instructions: Maille and Poupon (both widely available) are the big quality brands of dijon mustard for that intriguing combination of creamy smoothness and medium-hot tang. The latter is made with white wine the former is vinegar-based. In its powdered form Colmans (widely available) remains a classic for nostril-tingling mustard heat.

A wealth of fantastic smallbatch mustards are produced on British farms. For a full listing of producers write to the Farm Retail Association (PO Box 575 Southampton S015 7ZB).

0800 188-884
imports the mustards of Edmond Fallot from Beaune in Burgundy including a spiky green-peppercorn variety and a fragrant complex tarragon-style.

The Tracklement Co
uses traditional recipes and allnatural ingredients. Their range now runs to 13 different mustards.

Gordons Condiments
has no fewer than 17 flavours of mustard including whisky and chilli. Its original first produced in 1975 is adapted from a medieval recipe.

Shaken Oak
produces nine different varieties all handmade at their Oxford base.

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