Instructions: 1. Put Szechwan peppercorns and salt in a dry pan and stir constantly for 5 minutes over low heat. Let cool slightly, then crush peppercorns with a rolling pin and strain through a sieve.

2. Wipe duck inside and out with a damp cloth. Rub inside and out with pepper-salt mixture. Refrigerate, covered, overnight.

3. Rinse duck briefly with cold water to remove pepper salt coating.

Transfer to a large heatproof bowl and add sherry.

4. Steam 1-1/4 hours by the bowl-in-a-pot method (see "HOW-TO SECTION").

Turn off heat, but keep pan covered until duck has cooled to room temperature.

5. Drain duck, reserving liquid. Chop, bones and all, in 1-1/2 inch sections; or bone and cut in 1- by 2-inch strips. Pour duck liquid over, and chill. Serve cold.

NOTE: The duck in this dish is reddish and tender. It should not be confused with preserved duck, which is heavily salted and dried.

VARIATIONS:
1. For the Szechwan peppercorns, substitute 1 teaspoon either ground Szechwan pepper, ground black pepper, or cinnamon. In step 1, heat with the salt, stirring only 1 minute.

2. After step 1, add 1/2 teaspoon ground star anise to pepper salt mixture.

3. At the end of step 2, wrap duck well in foil and refrigerate 3 to 4 days.

4. In step 4, instead of steaming the duck, place in a heavy saucepan with 8 cups cold water and bring to a boil. Then simmer, covered, until tender but not too soft (about 40 to 60 minutes). Pick up step 5.

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