Instructions: The dried fruits vs. fresh give a more concentrated fruit flavor, according to pastry chef Carrie Cole, who makes the ice cream at Zinc Bistrot. Cole presents this scooped on top of folded crepes with brandied cherries.

"Jam" flavoring: 1 cup dried nectarines (5 ounces; see note) 1 cup dried apricots (5 ounces) Dry white wine or water to cover (about 1/2 cup; see note) Vanilla base: 1 quart whipping cream 1 cup granulated sugar 1 vanilla bean or 1 tablespoon vanilla 10 egg yolks

To make "jam" flavoring: In a medium saucepan, place dried nectarines and dried apricots, cover with wine or water. Bring to a boil, then simmer until liquid is reduced and fruit is reconstituted and becomes thick and jamlike. If liquid evaporates before fruit is softened, add a bit more liquid.

Remove from heat. After this cools slightly, smooth out with an immersible blender, or in a blender or food processor. Push mixture through a wire sieve to remove fiber; discard fiber, reserving remaining jam.

To make vanilla base: In a large, heavy saucepan, mix together cream and sugar. If using vanilla bean, split bean lengthwise and add; if using vanilla extract, add later as directed below. Over medium-low heat, bring mixture just to a simmer.

In a large bowl, beat the egg yolks. Slowly pour about half the cream mixture into the egg yolks, whisking all the time. Then gradually stir that mixture back into remaining half of cream in the saucepan and return to low heat, whisking constantly until its somewhat thickened and coats a spoon. Remove from heat. If using vanilla extract, stir in now. If using split vanilla bean, strain out bean.

In large bowl, place 1/2 to 1 cup of reserved "jam," and gradually whisk in vanilla base, enough to make ice cream to desired fruit strength.

Chill thoroughly in a shallow container. Freeze in ice cream maker according to manufacturers directions.

Note: Dried nectarines are available at Trader Joes and some specialty stores.

Note: Cole says using fresh juice instead of wine or water when making the jam flavoring is perfectly acceptable; however, the water content in juice will affect the richness of the ice cream. When using fresh juices (such as orange, apple), she likes to simmer the fruit and the juice with a little sugar and simmer to reduce the liquid more, which intensifies the flavor.

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