Instructions: PREPARATION: If using fresh chestnuts, heat oven to 400 F. With a small, sharp knife, cut a slit in each fresh chestnut, spread in a shallow baking pan, and roast for 15 to 20 minutes. Peel off both outer and inner skins while still warm. If they cool and become difficult to peel, reheat.

Peel and core quince and cut into 1-inch chunks. Squeeze 1 tablespoon lemon juice over quince and toss.

Melt 4 tablespoons of the butter in a large frying pan. Add chestnuts and quince and saute over low heat until soft, about 5 minutes. Add the ciders and stock, bring to a simmer, and reduce liquid to about 1/2 cup, about 20 minutes. Add applejack or Calvados and season to taste with salt and pepper. Stir in remaining 4 tablespoons of butter.

Chestnut and fruit mixture can be made a day ahead.

COOKING AND SERVING: Heat oven to 425 F. Rub the turkey with the butter and sprinkle generously with salt and pepper. Put turkey on a rack in a roasting pan and roast in preheated oven for 15 minutes. Reduce heat 325 F and cook turkey, basting often, until internal temperature reaches 140 F, about 3 1/2 to 4 hours. (Allow approximately 20 minutes a pound for roasting.)

Gently reheat chestnut and fruit mixture. Carve turkey and serve with chestnuts and fruit on the side.

NOTES : An updated classic. Heres traditional roast turkey with a variation= on old-fashioned Yankee trimmings. Quince resembles an apple, although it= is a bit tarter and requires long, slow cooking to mellow its flavor. Tart= apples are an acceptable substitute if quince are unavailable. As part of the New England holiday menu, Bruce Frankel and David Kantrowitz= also suggest a course of New England Farmstead Cheeses such as Hubbardston= blue cheese, Capri goat cheese, and goat Camembert.

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