Instructions: MAKES 1-1/2 TO 2 CUPS

Chop the chiles and mix with the garlic, onion, and salt. This can all be done in a food processor, although dont overblend it. This is a relish, not a sauce. Add oil if you want a rich taste and texture.

Let the mixture sit for 30 minutes or so. The individual flavors need time to blend. Store tightly covered, in the refrigerator for up to 2 days. If the salsa is to be kept any longer, stir in 1 tablespoon of vinegar.

*BOOKNOTEs: This relish is as simple as its name. It is what Dora Chavez and almost all the traditional Mexican-American home cooks I met with in the upper Rio Grande region of New Mexico have on their table for breakfast, lunch, and dinner The only exceptions were in the families that were relative newcomers to the United States; they would chop in a tomato.

This is traditionally served with grilled meats. When spooned over Soupy Pot Beans (see recipe) and served with plenty of flour tortillas, it produces a minor culinary miracle.

GREEN CHILE AND CHEESE SANDWICH. Mix half of the chile verde but omit the onion, with six ounces of grated Monterey jack or good cheddar cheese and heap it on a slice of whole wheat bread, preferably homemade.

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