Instructions: To make the crust: Combine flour, salt and optional sugar in a large bowl and whisk to blend. Add the butter and shortening. Working quickly and lightly, pinch and slide lumps of dough between fingertips until the mixture resembles dry rice.

Add the cheese, egg yolk, lemon juice and a minimum amount of ice water. Dont overwork the dough, lest you develop its elasticity. Lightly toss until it just begins to cling together in clumps but has not begun to form a ball. Sprinkle on a bit more water if the dough looks too dry. The dough should cling together and be pliable but not be sticky.

Turn the dough out onto a sheet of wax paper. Lift the papers opposite corners and press them together, squeezing the dough into a cohesive ball. Divide in half and flatten the dough into 2 six- inch disks. Wrap each disk in wax paper and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes before rolling, but the longer the better.

Butter the bottom and sides of a 9-inch pie plate. Roll out half of the dough to a 12-inch-diameter circle and place in the pie plate. Trim a 1/2-inch pastry overhang. To moisture-proof the lower crust, brush with egg glaze and/or sprinkle with crumbs.

Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. To assemble the pie: Put apples into a large bowl. Add sugar, lemon juice, flour and spices; toss well. Carefully arrange apples in pastry- lined pan, building up a compact, neat dome. Compress dome to be sure it is stable. Dot with butter, if using. Brush egg glaze over edge of lower crust. Roll out top crust and fit it over the fruit. Trim a 3/4- inch overhang. Fold edge under the bottom crust and pinch them together to seal, making a raised rim all around. Flute the edge. Cut vent holes in the top. Brush top of pie with egg glaze and sprinkle with topping sugar.

Set pie in the lower third of the preheated oven and bake for 12 to 15 minutes. Reduce the heat to 350 degrees, raise pie to the center of oven, and bake for an additional 40 to 45 minutes, or until golden brown and the fruit is tender when pierced with knife tip. Check pie halfway through and cover with a foil frame if necessary to prevent overbrowning. Cool on a wire rack.

Serve warm, accompanied by slices of sharp cheddar cheese or vanilla ice cream, if desired.

Serves 6 to 8.

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