Instructions: Bring water, bay leaves, chili pepper, and salt to a boil. Add the tripe, then immediately reduce heat. Simmer for at least 2 and 1/2 hours.

Remove the veal bone, bay leaves, pepper, and onion. Take out the tripe, then slice into paper-thin strips and mince crosswise. Skim the fat off the top of the stock and return the tripe to the pot with the diced potatoes. Thin with boiling water so its nicely soupy. Allow to simmer until youre ready to serve - hours, if possible, as you want the tripe to be as tender as possible.

When ready to serve, rub the marjoram into the pot between the heels of your hands. Bring soup to a good simmer, then drop in dumplings and cook until they are done. Ladle into bowls and serve immediately with a cruet of cider vinegar on the table for final flavoring.

To make dumplings: Cut butter or lard into flour, baking powder, and salt. Then stir in milk gradually. Flour hands - and roll dough into small balls.

Serve hot as a slender meal to 4 people.

Comments: Heres another "memory lane" soup - traditional in hometown Philadelphia - as evocative as, yo, a madeleine any old day. In my family - and my great grandmother was the queen of pepper pot - cognoscenti insisted on a sprinkle of cider vinegar at the table.

If you would like to email yourself the recipe for later use, or share the recipe with your friends or family, enter the email addresses below and this recipe will be emailed to you and others as well.