Instructions: To make consomme: Sprinkle cucumber with 1 tablespoon salt. Let sit 5 to 10 minutes. Put in a blender and puree until very smooth. Pour into a fine-mesh sieve lined with damp cheesecloth and sitting snugly over a bowl. Refrigerate for 2-4 hours to let juice drain. Discard solids and reserve cucumber water.

Season with lime juice or vinegar and salt to taste.

To prepare carpaccio: Using a very sharp knife, evenly slice fish into 1/4 inch-thick pieces. Lay out 4 pieces of plastic wrap, each a little larger than the dish or bowl you plan to serve carpaccio in. Spray plastic with a vegetable-oil cooking spray or coat with a few drops of oil. Place 1/4 of slices on first piece, in a rough circle, with edges just touching. Lay another piece of plastic wrap over the top. With the flat back of a small saute pan or a mallet, gently pound fish until it begins to spread and all edges meet, without making any holes. Pound until very thin, but still within edges of plastic wrap.

Repeat process until remaining tuna is pounded.

To serve: Chill 4 rimmed plates or shallow soup bowls. Take a sheet of carpaccio and remove top piece of plastic. Turn dish upside down over the layer of fish, and keeping both together, flip right-side up. Press carpaccio into bottom of bowl and remove second piece of plastic. Ladle 1/3 cup cucumber consomme into each bowl. Garnish by floating a few enoki mushrooms and a little salmon caviar on surface.

Advance prep: The fish can be pounded out, wrapped with plastic and stored in refrigerator for up to 24 hours. Cucumber water should be used as soon as it has been extracted.

Wine notes: Serve with champagne, sparkling wine, a light-bodied Sauvignon Blanc or Kabinett-level German Riesling.

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