Instructions: I accidentally ate a dried chili the other day, and after downing a bowlful of rice to put out the fire in my mouth, recalled the first time I ordered beef with orange flavor in a Chinese restaurant.

I was served a dish that should have been named chilies with orange flavor. It featured at least 60 dried red peppers, along with a little beef and orange peel. This was decades ago, and I have steered clear of the dish ever since.

Recently, however, I started thinking about how nicely the flavors of chili and orange complement each other and how good such a dish could be.

After recreating the dish with beef, I switched to shrimp. They take better to the orange and generate enough liquid so that no stock is necessary to keep the dish juicy.

The last step was to add scallions, not only for their flavor but because their bright green offsets the colors of the chilies and orange and makes the dish sparkle.

This is essentially a stir-fry, and an easy one. A couple of things are worth noting: Though the recipe usually calls for an orange, a tangelo is even better.

Those labeled Minneolas have good flavor and vivid color, and are preferable to a thin-skinned orange for this dish. Dont use a zester, for you will want fairly large pieces of zest. Stick with a vegetable peeler or paring knife, and avoid as much of the bitter white pith as you can.

The recipe calls for peeled shrimp, but if you like, remove only the tails and feelers, and leave the shells on. The shells are edible and will contribute flavor and crunch to the dish.

You can, of course, peel the shrimp at the table and have the pleasure of licking the juices off your fingers. and if you want to use beef instead, purchase about a pound of sirloin, flank or blade steak. Slice it very thinly before proceeding as below. If you freeze it for about 30 minutes before you slice it, your task will be much easier.

Because I like just a suggestion of heat, I find three or four chilies plenty. But you can add a handful if you like your food fiery.

I dont recommend eating them.

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