Instructions: Season flour with salt and pepper. Dredge pieces of veal shank in it, shaking off excess.

Heat oil and butter in large ovenproof casserole or Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Add veal shanks and brown on all sides (stand the pieces up to brown the sides as well). Remove veal shanks and let drain on paper towels.

Reduce heat to medium and add onion, garlic and oregano. Cook, stirring occasionally, for 10 minutes. Add tomatoes, salt and pepper and cover over medium-low heat for 10 minutes, skimming off any fat and crushing tomatoes with wooden spoon. Add wine, raise heat and bring to boil. Reduce heat and simmer, uncovered, for 15 minutes. Meanwhile, heat oven to 350 degrees.

Return veal shanks to casserole. Add enough broth to just cover meat.

Cover, place in oven and bake 1 1/2 hours. Remove lid and bake until veal is very tender, about 30 minutes longer.

Combine parsley and lemon zest (this is the gremolata). Just before serving, sprinkle it over veal. Serve with pasta or risotto.

Notes: Sometimes you have to go back to the classics. For winter dinner parties, a hearty, long-cooked osso buco has been a crowd-pleaser. The and Sheila Lukins (Workman, 1989), but Ive adapted it. The original called for 16 sections of veal shank - a monster amount. Osso buco is traditionally served with risotto, but I serve it with pasta to cut down on dinner-party work. 1/2 cup all-purpose flour

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