Instructions: Growing up on the East Coast, Oyster Bill frequented the many "clam shacks" along the shore, where one of the specialties was oyster rolls.

This batter recipe was given to him years ago by Ernie Varina of the Mansion Clam House in Westport, Conn. Lori McKean says its special for the way it seals in the oysters succulent juices while allowing the outsides to turn golden and crisp. In New England, Frank Rolls from the Frauheufer Baking Co. are used, but hot dog buns will have to do on the West Coast.

1 egg, beaten
1 (12-ounce) can evaporated milk
1/2 cup yellow cornmeal
1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
Salt and pepper or seasonings to taste
18 to 24 small oysters, shucked and drained Vegetable oil for frying
6 Hot dog buns, split
Butter
1 1/2 cups shredded lettuce
Tartar Sauce (see accompanying recipe)

Lemon wedges

In a small mixing bowl, whisk together the egg and evaporated milk. Combine the cornmeal and flour in another bowl; season to taste. Dip the oysters in the egg mixture, then toss very gently through the seasoned flour mixture, coating thoroughly. Gently shake off excess flour. Set oysters on a plate or baking sheet and place in the refrigerator.

Heat 2 inches of oil in a heavy skillet until it reaches 375 degrees F. When hot, add the oysters and fry about 2 minutes per side, until crisp and golden.

Fry in batches if necessary. Drain oysters on paper towels and keep warm in a 200-degree oven.

To serve, lightly butter the rolls and grill until golden. Distribute shredded lettuce over the bottom half of the rolls and top with 3 to 4 fried oysters. Spread tartar sauce over each the top half of each roll. Serve with extra tartar sauce and lemon wedges.

Recommended beverage: Chilled beer or stout.

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