Instructions: In a saucepan sweat the leeks in the butter with the garlic and salt and pepper until soft but not coloured then add the potatoes and the stock.

Simmer until the potatoes are soft and have started to crumble.

Then add the double cream and the milk and gently heat through.

Keep warm.

Meanwhile fry or grill the sausages until well browned on all sides.

While they are cooking open the oysters: put the oyster deepside down on a crumpled tea towel and fold the towel over the top with its pointed end protruding.

Hold it firmly with your left hand then work the tip of the oyster knife into the small welllike groove at the tip.

Its tough work: the art is to push and wheedle at the same time.

Slip the knife along the top of the flat shell to sever the muscle that holds the shells together keeping the shell sitting parallel to the work surface (tip it and youll loose all the juices to the tea towel).

Strain the juices of four of the oysters into the soup pan (through muslin or a tea towel to avoid grit) and add the flesh.

Then process the soup until smooth and check if it needs more salt. Distribute the remaining oysters along with the sausages on serving plates and add a bowl of soup to each.

Pick mix and dunk things together as you eat.

This is not as odd or as highfalutin as it may sound. Oysters were once everyday food. My grandfather would order a dozen with his pint for a mere thrupence (were talking 1930s) and enjoy steak kidney and oyster pudding back home for supper. Oysters were often eaten with meat: proof that surf and turf is no new idea. Youll need an oyster knife or something stubby and strong (a screwdriver/glazind knife) to open the shells.

Serves 4

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