Instructions: Dress, scale, and what the fish, pat dry, salt and pepper, then dredge them in the meal or meal-flour combination.

Heat the fat until it is hot enough to cook at once, but not burning, sputtering hot. Lay in the fish, turn heat down to barely a medium flame, and begin to brown the fish. Keep the fish loose from the pan bottom with a thin metal spatula.

Taking 8-10 minutes to a side (turn heat low if it seems to fry too fast), brown the fish slowly until crisp. Do not overcook. When the flesh is opaque the fish is done; one hopes its all browned by then.

Add 4 Tbs. butter to the skillet after removing the fish and squeeze in the juice of a lemon, stir the fat and juices to loosen the dredgings, and pour over the browned fish.

VARIATION: After removing the fish from the skillet, toss about 1/3 cup of chopped black walnuts. Brown lightly with the remaining butter and sprinkle over the fish before serving.

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