Instructions: 1. Break the cauliflower into florets, slashing any thick stalks lengthwise so all parts cook evenly. Boil until just tender in salted water with vinegar added (to keep the cauliflower white). Drain and chop finely.

2. Heat the oil in a large skillet. Saute the garlic over low heat until soft. Add the cauliflower and saute for 5 minutes, stirring frequently. Add the oregano, season with salt and pepper, and set aside.

3. Make the bechamel by melting 2 tablespoons butter in another skillet.

Add the flour and stir with a fork to paste-like consistency. Whisk in the milk, pouring in a steady stream until the sauce has thickened. Keep warm.

4. Meanwhile cook the pasta until very al dente. Drain.

5. PREHEAT the oven to 350 degrees. Grease an 8 x 16-inch baking pan and spread 2 tablespoons of the bechamel sauce over the surface.

6. To assemble the pasta nests, twirl 10 strands into a nest with an open center. Place the nest in the baking dish and fill with cauliflower. Repeat until you have 16 nests. Pour the remainder of the bechamel over the nests, sprinkle with cheese, dust with pepper, and bake for 20 minutes. Serve immediately.

SERVES 4; TIME: 75-90 minutes; Easy.

MAKE AHEAD: The cauliflower can be cooked up to 4 hours in advance and refrigerated.

Notes: When my friend Sheila, saw me making these pasta nests, she asked whether the flavor was any different than it would be if the pasta was simply tossed and baked without taking the time to twirl it into tests.

"Well, no, I had to reply. Probably not." But then I thought about it again: Does presentation affect flavor? And having restructured the question into this saner more creative framework, I retracted my previous answer. "Actually," I told her, "it does. After all, dont you usually

have a better day when youre looking your best?"

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