Instructions: This American invention can be delicious as long as you stick with lemon juice in the vinaigrette and let the vegetables cool before dressing them.

The challenge: Italians may shake their heads at the idea of pasta salad, but in the summer no one really wants to eat a bowl of steaming hot pasta. The problem is that many pasta salads, especially those found in the deli section of the supermarket dressed in vinaigrette, are drab, tired, mushy affairs. We wanted to develop a recipe for a light, vinaigrette-dressed pasta salad that looked good and tasted even better.

The solution: We thought the key ingredient in a vinaigrette for pasta salad would be its acid component. While some acidity is clearly needed to brighten the flavor, too much can cause the pasta to soften and the vegetables to dull both in flavor and appearance. To test the effects of different acids in a standard vinaigrette recipe, we made a simple pasta salad with blanched and cooled broccoli, divided it into four parts, and tossed each in a dressing that varied only in its acid component: red wine vinegar, balsamic vinegar, white wine vinegar, and lemon juice. The salad made with lemon juice was clearly the best. It had a nice bright flavor without being puckery or sour, and even after several hours its broccoli was still green and crunchy; the broccoli in the other three salads had started to turn olive drab and fall apart after only 30 minutes.

When we turned our attention to the vegetables, we discovered that, as we suspected, cooking methods other than blanching added more flavor to our salads. Grilling and roasting are very good alternatives to blanching, and the different recipes that follow make use of all three techniques.

PASTA SALAD WITH BROCCOLI AND OLIVES

Serves 6 to 8

If you prefer, increase the hot red pepper flakes or replace them with a few grindings of black pepper.

3 pounds broccoli (about 2 small bunches), florets cut into bite-size pieces (about 7 cups)

1/4 cup juice and 1/2 teaspoon grated zest from 2 lemons Salt
1 medium garlic clove, minced
1/2 teaspoon hot red pepper flakes
1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 pound short, bite-size pasta, such as fusilli, farfalle, or orecchiette 20 large black olives, such as Kalamata or other brine-cured variety, pitted and chopped 15 large fresh basil leaves, shredded

1. Bring 4 quarts water to boil in large pot over high heat. Cook broccoli according to chart directions; drain and cool to room temperature.

2. Meanwhile, whisk lemon juice and zest, 3/4 teaspoon salt, garlic, and red pepper flakes in large bowl; whisk in oil in slow, steady stream until smooth.

3. Add pasta and 1 tablespoon salt to boiling water. Cook until pasta is al dente and drain. Whisk dressing again to blend; add hot pasta, cooled broccoli, olives, and basil; toss to mix thoroughly. Cool to room temperature, adjust seasonings, and serve. (Can be covered with plastic wrap and refrigerated for 1 day; return to room temperature before serving.)

PASTA SALAD WITH FENNEL, RED ONIONS, AND SUN-DRIED TOMATOES

Grill or roast 2 large fennel bulbs and 2 large red onions according to chart directions; cool to room temperature. Follow recipe for Pasta Salad with Broccoli and Olives, substituting the cooked fennel and onions for the broccoli; ground black pepper to taste for hot red pepper

flakes; and 1/2 cup oil-packed sun-dried tomatoes, sliced thin, for olives.

PASTA SALAD WITH EGGPLANT, TOMATOES, AND BASIL

Grill or broil 2 medium eggplants (about 1 pound, total) according to chart directions; cool to room temperature. Follow recipe for Pasta Salad with Broccoli and Olives, substituting the cooked eggplant and 2 large tomatoes, prepared according to chart directions, for the broccoli and olives, and adding 1 medium garlic clove, minced, along with the basil.

PASTA SALAD WITH ASPARAGUS AND RED PEPPERS

Chives work particularly well with the asparagus and peppers, but you can substitute fresh mint, parsley, or basil.

Grill or roast 1 1/2 pounds asparagus and 3 large red peppers according to chart directions; cool to room temperature. Follow recipe for Pasta Salad with Broccoli and Olives, substituting the cooked asparagus and red peppers for the broccoli and olives; ground black pepper to taste for hot red pepper flakes; and 3 tablespoons snipped fresh chives for basil; and adding 1/3 cup grated Parmesan cheese.

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