Instructions: WHILE MEATS WOULD BE OVERPOWERING ON MY ANGEL HAIR PASTA, crisply sauteed sweetbreads, along with sauteed wild mushrooms, make a wonderfully rich, satisfying opping with a great combination of textures and tastes.

Heat 1/4 cup of the walnut oil in a skillet over high heat until the oil is almost smoking. Add the chanterelles. Let them set and brown, without stirring, for 30 seconds. Then turn them and let them set on the other side for 30 seconds more. Remove the mushrooms from the skillet and set them aside.

Pour off tide oil from the skillet. Add l/2 cup of wine and the chicken stock and simmer briskly for 2 minutes, stirring and scraping to dissolve the glaze in the skillet. Then add the cream and boil until it has reduced by half, 12 to 15 minutes.

While the cream is reducing, bring the remaining wine and the 2 cups of water to a boil in a saucepan. Add the sweetbreads and blanch them for 3 minutes. Then drain them and carefully use a small sharp knife and your fingertips to remove their membranes and trim and clean them. Cut the sweetbreads into 6 slices about 1/2 inch thick and set them aside.

In a large pot, bring 8 quarts of lightly salted water to a boil; add the olive oil.

A few minutes before the cream has finished reducing, season the sweetbreads with salt and pepper. Sprinkle the flour on a plate and lightly dredge the sweetbreads in it on both sides. Heat the remaining walnut oil with the butter in another skillet over high heat until the oil is almost smoking and the butter begins to brown. Add the sweetbreads and saute them for 1 l/2 minutes per side, until golden.

As soon as you start cooking the sweetbreads, put the pasta in the boiling water and cook until al dense, no more then 2 minutes. Drain well.

Add the reserved mushrooms to the cream sauce to heat through briefly and toss the pasta with the sauce and mushrooms, half of the basil and chives, and salt and pepper to taste. Mound the pasta in the middle of each of 6 large serving plates, arranging the mushrooms on top. Place the sweetbreads on top of the pasta and garnish with the remaining herbs.

Yield: For 6 servings

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