Instructions: In a food processor or bowl, combine 1 1/2 cups flour (1 1/4 cups if using Cornmeal-Parmesan Seasoning Mix), Seasoning Mix, and salt; whirl or stir to blend. Add butter and pulse or cut in with a pastry blender until mixture forms 1/4-inch crumbs.

Sprinkle 3 tablespoons cold water (or lemon juice, if using Lemon-Anise Seasoning Mix) over mixture and pulse or mix with a fork until evenly moistened. Gently squeeze about 1/4 cup of the dough into a ball; if it wont hold together, crumble lump back into bowl, sprinkle with 1 to 2 more tablespoons cold water, and pulse or mix again until dough is evenly moistened and holds together.

With lightly floured hands, press dough into a ball; dust lightly with flour and press into a 1/2-inch-thick rectangle (4 1/2 by 6 1/2 inches). Press edges to make smooth.

On a lightly floured board, with a lightly floured rolling pin, roll dough firmly but gently in short strokes from the center outward into a 1/8-inch-thick rectangle (10 by 12 inches). Trim edges to make even. Sprinkle sesame seeds (or coarse sugar, if using Lemon-Anise Seasoning Mix) evenly over dough and roll lightly into surface without enlarging rectangle.

With a fluted pastry wheel or a knife, cut rectangle in half crosswise, then cut lengthwise across whole rectangle into 1/2-inch-wide strips. Brush lightly with beaten egg; save remaining egg for other uses or discard. One at a time, lift strips by both ends and transfer to 12- by 15-inch baking sheets (youll need two), spacing about 1 inch apart.

Bake savory straws in a 375 degree regular or convection oven (sweet ones at 350 degrees) until lightly browned and crisp, 12 to 20 minutes. Cool on sheets 1 minute, then transfer to racks with a wide spatula. Serve warm or cool.

This recipe yields about 4 dozen straws.

Classic Cheddar Seasoning Mix: In a small bowl, mix 3/4 cup shredded sharp cheddar cheese and 1/4 teaspoon cayenne.

Curry Seasoning Mix: In a small bowl, mix 2 teaspoons curry powder and 1/4 teaspoon cayenne.

Cornmeal-Parmesan Seasoning Mix: In a small bowl, mix 1/2 cup grated parmesan cheese, 1/4 cup yellow cornmeal, and 2 teaspoons Italian seasoning (or 1 teaspoon each dried basil and dried oregano).

Lemon-Anise Seasoning Mix: In a small bowl, mix 1/3 cup granulated sugar, 2 teaspoons grated lemon peel, and 1 1/2 teaspoons anise seeds.

Comments: If making straws up to 3 days ahead, cool and store airtight at room temperature; freeze to store longer.

Yield: 48 straws

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