Instructions: Make the Basil Oil: Combine basil, oil, and salt in a blender. Process until smooth; transfer to a glass jar. (Makes 2/3 cup)

In the basin of a large outdoor grill, build a fire using charcoal briquettes. Allow the coals to turn gray and ashy; add the wood chips, and wait for the chips to smoke. Season both sides of fillets with salt and pepper and a pinch of sugar. Arrange fillets, flat-sides down, on grill; cover. Smoke until fillets turn opaque and have almost cooked through, 15 to 20 minutes. Using a spatula, remove fillets from grill, and set aside.

Fill a large stockpot with cold salted water; add potatoes. Bring to a boil, reduce heat, and simmer until potatoes are fork tender, 15 to 25 minutes. Drain, and let cool enough to handle. Cut large potatoes in half; set aside.

Bring two medium pots of salted water to a boil; have ready an ice bath. Blanch asparagus and peas separately until bright green and tender, 30 seconds to 1 minute. Plunge into ice-water bath; drain. Cut asparagus into 1 1/2-inch lengths. Place potatoes, asparagus, and peas in a large bowl.

Place lemon juice in a bowl. Whisk in basil oil, and season with salt and pepper. Drizzle three-fourths of dressing over salad; toss well. Arrange watercress on serving plates. Place the potato salad and smoked-salmon fillets over watercress. Drizzle with remaining basil oil, and serve immediately.

Serves 8.

Comments: Peach-wood chips are available from Natures Own, 11 Roddy Avenue, South Attleboro, MA 02703; (508) 399-8690

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