Instructions: Recommended pasta: First choice goes to conchiglie for the deftness with which its hollows catch the cause, but both fusilli and rigatoni are excellent alternative.

1. If using fresh peas: Shell them, discard the pods, rinse them in cold water, and cook them in a small amount of simmering water until they are just tender. The time varies greatly depending on the freshness and youth of the peas.

If using thawed frozen peas: Begin the sauce at step

2.

2. Cut the bacon into short, narrow strips. Put it into a small saute pan, and turn on the heat to medium. Cook until it becomes very lightly browned, but not crisp, and the fat melts. Pour off all but 2 tablespoons of bacon fat from the pan.

3. Put the cooked fresh peas or the thawed frozen peas in the pan with the bacon. Cook at medium heat for about 1 or 2 minutes, stirring to coat the peas thoroughly.

4. Put the ricotta in the bowl the pasta will subsequently be tossed in, and crumble with a fork. Add the butter.

5. Cook and drain the pasta, and put it in the bowl, tossing it immediately with the ricotta and the butter. Rapidly warm up the peas and bacon, and pour the entire contents of the pan onto the pasta. Toss thoroughly, add the grate Parmesan and 2 or 3 grindings of pepper, toss once or twice again, and serve at once, with more grated on the side.

Marcella Hazan and Alfred A. Knopf).

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