Instructions: Put a kettle of water on to boil.

Wash and dry the duck thoroughly. Mix all of the filling ingredients together and place the filling into the cavity of the duck. Sew up the opening with a needle and thread.

Pour the boiling water over the entire body of the duck. The skin will tighten and immediately separate from the flesh.

Heat the maltose with the vinegar until the maltose dissolves. Gently rub the mixture over the duck.

Hang the duck in a drafty place to dry for at least 6 hours (overnight is a good idea).

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Roast the duck on a rack for about 1 hour, or until the skin is crisp and reddish-brown.

Meanwhile, make the mu shu pancakes: Place the flour in a small mixing bowl, quickly pour in the boiling water and mix together as quickly as possible (it is important that the water be at a good boil). The mixture will be flaky. Add the salt and groundnut oil and work in. Continue to stir for 2 minutes, until the mixture becomes soft and pliable, yet a little firm.

Divide the dough into two equal parts. Roll out each piece of dough into a sausage-like roll about 2 inches thick by 4 inches long. Cut each roll into 4 pieces. On a lightly floured surface, roll each piece into a 6-inch circle.

Grease the bottom of a flat skillet (frying pan) with a little groundnut oil and fry each pastry circle, one at a time, on low to moderate heat. Move the pan occasionally to prevent the pancakes from burning.

Turn the pancake onto the other side when small bubbles appear. Keep covered with a damp tea towel until all the pancakes are cooked and ready to serve.

Serve the duck with the mu shu pancakes, scallions and hoisin sauce.

This recipe yields 8 servings.

Comments: The fame of this dish goes far beyond its place of origin. Throughout most of the world today, Peking duck is synonymous with Chinese haute cuisine. Not only is it acclaimed for its exquisite skin, crisp and melting over a fine layer of succulent fat, but perhaps even more for the formal ritual that must accompany the serving of the remarkable dish.

There is an undoubted element of theater in its presentation: the famed duck is first wheeled out of a trolley by its creator, resplendent in white and complete with white gloves. The duck is thus displayed in its full glory for the approval of the patrons before the masterful slicing of square pieces of crisp skin is performed in full view of the diners.

The unique manner of wrapping each delicious morsel in a thin mu shu pancake and eating it with a judicious amount of sauce is a refinement that could easily be what I consider the first concept of nouvelle cuisine.

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