Instructions: 1 Use a potato peeler to pare off the potato skins as thinly as possible and cut the potatoes into even-sized chunks - not too small; if they are large, quarter them, and if small, halve them.

2 Put the potato chunks in a steamer fitted over a large pan of boiling water, sprinkle the salt all over them, put a lid on and steam the potatoes until absolutely tender - they should take about 20-25 minutes.

3 The way to check they are ready is to pierce them with a skewer in the thickest part: they should not be hard in the centre - if they are slightly underdone, you will get lumps.

4 When the potatoes are cooked, remove from the steamer, drain off the water, return to the saucepan and cover with a clean tea cloth for about four minutes to absorb some of the steam. Add the butter, milk and creme fraiche.

5 When you first go in with the whisk, use a slow speed to break the potatoes up, increase it to high and whip up to a smooth, creamy, fluffy mass. Taste and, if they need it, season.

6 For Low-Fat Mashed Potatoes: Replace the butter, milk and creme fraiche with 5z/150g Quark (skimmed-milk soft cheese) and 2-3 tbsp semi-skimmed milk.

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