Instructions: * Note: Ventreche is smoked pork breast.

In a large, heavy ovenproof pot, heat 3 tablespoons duck fat over medium-high heat. Add chopped onions, and saute until lightly browned, 6 to 8 minutes. Add cabbage, and continue cooking, stirring occasionally, until cabbage is browned and caramelized, 35 to 40 minutes.

Use a combination of uncovered and covered cooking: As moisture evaporates and cabbage browns, cover pan to prevent burning. As moisture collects on the cover and drops onto cabbage, lift cover, stir cabbage to incorporate liquid, and continue cooking. Lower heat if cabbage browns too quickly.

Season generously with salt and pepper, and stir in juniper berries. Set aside. Cabbage may be cooked up to a couple of days ahead, covered, and refrigerated. Reheat when ready to continue.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees with the rack in the center. Make a cut at the joint between drumstick and thigh of the pheasant, so the tendons dont pull the meat up as they cook. Season the cavity with salt, pepper, and mustard; insert whole onion studded with cloves. Tie legs together with kitchen twine, and turn the wing tips under. Dredge the pheasant all over with the flour. Heat remaining tablespoon of duck fat and the oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Brown the pheasant on all sides, 6 to 8 minutes.

Transfer pheasant, breast-side up, to the pot with the cabbage. Lay slices of ventreche over the breast, pack cabbage around and over the pheasant. Cover, and bake until juices are pale pink when pricked deep in the thigh, 35 to 45 minutes. Baste with pan juices twice as it cooks.

Remove from oven. Transfer cabbage to a serving platter. Dice ventreche and sprinkle over cabbage. Return pot, uncovered, to oven. Cook pheasant until juices run clear and thigh moves easily in its socket, about 10 minutes.

Remove from oven, untie legs, discard whole onion, and drain juice from cavity into pot. Place pheasant on top of cabbage and keep warm in turned-off oven.

Place pot on stove. Add Armagnac, and carefully ignite. Bring sauce to a boil over high heat. Boil for 3 minutes, stirring frequently. Add cream, lower heat, and simmer until heated through and thickened slightly, 3 to 4 minutes. Taste and adjust seasoning. Strain sauce through a fine sieve into a gravy boat.

Serve the pheasant whole or cut into pieces with cabbage and sauce.

This recipe yields 4 servings.

Comments: Lots of tradition surrounds the pheasant, one of the most commonly eaten game birds in the world. After roasting a pheasant, ancient Romans dressed it up in the plumage theyd plucked. At medieval feasts, pheasants were often elaborately decorated and brought to the table with gilded legs and beaks. And once, medieval knights swore an oath to pheasants before doing battle. Today, the pheasant is probably most revered for its rich, strong flavor, which is showcased in this recipe from Ariane Daguin of New York Citys DArtagnan Restaurant and Rotisserie.

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