Instructions: Brown the birds in butter to a nice golden colour over a moderate heat.

Salt and pepper the insides and put a tablespoon of cream in each.

Put them back in the pan ifyou have had to remove them and pour over the alcohol.

Simmer for 5 minutes turning the birds from time to time.

Meanwhile peel core and slice the apples.

Line the base of a deep pot large enough to take both the birds with half the apples.

Put the birds and their juices on top and scatter the rest of the apples over them.

Season and pour over the cider.

Cover tightly and put into a moderate oven preheated to 180C (3 iOF gas 4) for an hour.

Check their tenderness (game is best if still a little pink).

They may need a bit longer.

When they are done leave to rest while you eat a first course.

Dish them up in the usual way on the apples keeping a few of the neater slices to arrange round them.

Serve the same cider to drink with bread to mop up the juices and a watercress salad to follow.

Serves 4

A dish for eating at a very late dinner after Midnight Mass or on Christmas Day at lunchtime or in the evening. When buying game make sure you are given birds that have lived in the wild and been properly hung.

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