Instructions: Stainless steel I love my enormous stainless-steel Cuisinart saute pan because I can start things on the stove top and finish them in the oven.

Benefits: It is virtually indestructible, and doesnt scratch or dent. My pan has a sandwich of stainless steel and copper on the bottom, which allows for better heat absorption and conduction.

Drawbacks: Stainless steel is not a very good heat conductor. A large stainless pan requires a good, hot gas stove.

Price: A five-piece set is around $100; a one-piece item, such as a saucepan, is about $44.

All-clad

I also have a few all-clad pots and pans. I use them quite a bit at work and really think they are worth the investment. They are heavy gauge and sturdy, and thats key for high-heat cooking.

Price: A five-piece set is around $300; a one-piece item, such as a five-and-a-half-quart saucepan is around $120.

Copper

Copper does the trick as my saute pan.

Benefits: Copper is an excellent heat conductor. I have a prize hand-hammered copper confiture pot that I bought at Dehillerin in Paris

(and carried in my lap on the flight home!); its heavy and perfect for making jam and jellies.

Drawbacks: I dont recommend using copper often. Its costly and requires a lot of care and maintenance. Also, copper will react adversely with some foods, so it is sometimes lined with tin or stainless steel. Quite commonly, tarte tatin pans, fairly specialized pans used for making upside down French apple tarts, are made of copper and have a tin lining. The lining can scratch easily, so you must take good care of it. Copper is pretty expensive and this was a costly indulgence for me, but I rationalized that it would be cheaper in Paris than in the States. I also splurged on a sugar pot. Its a medium-size saucepan with a spout for pouring. Sugar takes no time to caramelize in copper.

Teflon

Teflon-coated cookware is very popular.

Benefits: I use a small nonstick skillet for frying eggs and making omelettes, and a small saucepan for making grits. I like using them because the eggs and grits dont latch on and stick. I like the little bits of brown that cling to the bottom of the pan - the browning of the natural sugars; that adds the flavor.

Price: I buy inexpensive, replaceable pans.

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