Instructions: For the dough: In a saucepan over medium heat, combine the milk, butter, sugar, and salt. Heat stirring once or twice, until butter is melted. Remove from the heat and pour into a large mixing bowl.

Cool the milk to between 105 and 115 degrees. Add the yeast and cinnamon, stirring to combine, and let stand 5 minutes. Stir in beaten eggs and then the flour, 1 cup at a time, until a soft dough forms. Turn out onto a floured surface and knead, incorporating more flour as necessary, until the dough is smooth and elastic, about 5 minutes. Butter a large bowl and turn the dough in the butter to coat it. Cover with a clean towel and let stand at room temperature for 2 hours, or until doubled in bulk. Punch down the dough, knead it briefly and return it to the bowl. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight.

To assemble: Turn the chilled dough out onto a lightly floured surface and pat and roll it out into a 12- by 17-inch rectangle about 1/3 inch thick. Spread 3/4 stick of the softened butter evenly over the dough. Scatter the raisins evenly over the butter. Starting with the long side of the dough closest to you, roll the dough up into a long cylinder. Cut the cylinder crosswise into 12 equal slices.

In a heavy 14-inch skillet, preferably one with straight sides, melt the remaining 1 stick of butter. Remove from the heat and with a pastry brush grease the sides of the skillet with some of the melted butter. Stir the pistacios, light brown sugar, and honey into the butter in the skillet. Arrange the 12 slices of dough, cut side down, in the pistacio mixture. Cover the skillet with a towel and let them rise at room temperature for 2 hours, or until doubled in bulk.

Position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Set the skillet on the rack and bake 30 to 35 minutes, or until the buns are puffed and golden brown. Cool them in the skillet on a rack for 5 minutes, and then invert them onto a platter or cookie sheet. Serve hot or warm.

This recipe yields 12 buns.

Comments: These high, wide, and handasome sweet rolls dont have to be baked in a skillet (you can substitute a 13- by 9- by 2-inch baking dish if you wish), but when they are it recalls - especially if theyre where your guests can see them cooling in the skillet - rustic chuck wagon sweets of yore and makes for an eye-catching presentstion.

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