Instructions: Preheat a broiler. Place the tomatoes in a shallow baking pan and place in the broiler 4 to 6 inches from the heat source. Broil, turning occasionally, until charred on all sides, 10 to 12 minutes.

Remove the tomatoes from the broiler, let cool slightly, and cut out the cores. Transfer to a blender, add 1 cup of the chicken stock, and puree until smooth. Set aside.

In a heavy, wide saucepan or deep saute pan over medium heat, warm the olive oil. When it is nearly smoking, add the onion, salt, and pepper and saute until golden brown, about 15 minutes. Add the garlic and whole serrano chilies and saute for 1 minute longer. Add the tomato puree and remaining 3 cups chicken stock and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium and simmer, uncovered, for 10 minutes to blend the flavors.

To poach the eggs, one at a time, crack them into a cup and gently slide them into the simmering broth. Cook the eggs, basting the tops occasionally with spoonfuls of the hot broth, until the whites are set but the yolks are still soft, 4 to 6 minutes.

Using a slotted spoon, gently lift out the eggs and place 2 in each warmed soup bowl. Ladle the broth over the eggs and garnish with the grated cheese. Serve immediately with the flour tortillas alongside.

This recipe yields 4 servings.

Comments: Morning meals in cantinas often feature brothy dishes like this one, which can also double as a light mid-day repast or dinner in summertime. Mexican cooks sometimes call this simple preparation huevos ahogados, or "drowned eggs." Be sure to roast the tomatoes until uniformly charred, to develop a smoky flavor.

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