Instructions: *Note: Lobster stock should be made from shells and heads, then heavily reduced to make 3-4 tablespoons.

Scale, gut and wipe the fish. Rub the inside cavity with salt. If you have a fish kettle, steam the salmon whole over boiling water for 30-35 minutes (making sure the water is kept topped up). Or wrap the fish in lightly oiled foil and bake it in the oven for an hour at 325 F (170 C) gas mark 3. Leave it to rest while you make the butter.

Warm the lemon juice in a small basin over a saucepan of simmering water.

Beat in the nuggets of cold butter, adding more as each one melts. Do this gently - it can split if you overheat it (revive it with a quick splash of cold water). When you have an unctuous smooth sauce like thin cream, sieve and whisk in the green goo from the head of the lobster - which immediately turns the butter a wonderful orange-pink.

Serve the salmon when it is just cool but still sweet-flavoured and full of its own juices, with piping hot baked potatoes and warm lobster butter.

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