Instructions: * Note: Extra fat is needed to keep this dish moist, so ask your butcher for some very thin slices of fatback; lay it out on a piece of parchment paper, then lay it over the top of the loin before tying.

Rub the pork loin all over with sage, salt, and pepper. Shingle the thinly sliced fatback over the pork, and tie with kitchen twine into a uniform log. Refrigerate overnight for more flavor.

Heat a large stockpot over medium-high heat. Add pork loin, fat-side down, and sear until brown, 3 to 4 minutes per side. If necessary, add a little oil to start the searing process. Remove loin from pan. Pour off, and discard fat. Reduce heat to medium; add butter, garlic, and sage. Cook until garlic is golden and fragrant, about 5 minutes.

Meanwhile, in a medium saucepan, heat the cream and milk together until they reach a simmer.

When garlic is golden, return pork to pan, fat-side up. Pour warm cream over loin (it should reach about two-thirds of the way up the sides of the pork). Stir in lemon zest, and season with salt and pepper. Bring to a simmer. Partially cover, and cook until an instant-read thermometer inserted in center registers 150 degrees, 1 to 1 1/2 hours.

While pork is simmering, do not touch it, a brown crust should begin to form on the surface and the cream mixture should thicken and become slightly custardlike. If custard has not formed by the time the pork is cooked, remove pork, and simmer, partially covered, until desired consistency is achieved, about 10 minutes. Return pork to sauce.

Allow pork to cool in cream mixture. Transfer pork to work surface; remove twine. Slice pork crosswise into 1/4-inch-thick slices. Return pork to cream mixture, and slowly reheat.

Line a baking sheet with paper towel; set aside. Heat 1 inch of oil in a small saucepan to 350 degrees. Add sage leaves, and fry until crisp, about 10 seconds.

Divide warm pork among serving plates, ladle over custard, and garnish with fried sage. Serve immediately.

This recipe yields 6 servings.

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