Instructions: MOLE NEGRO CARNE CON DE CERDO - Oaxaca, Mexico. A Mole (MOH-lay; MOH-leh)

is a thick, cooked sauce with complex flavors. This reduced fat version features toasted chiles, tomatoes, almonds and peanuts to which dried fruits, spices, and chocolate are added. All but the fruit is roasted in a dry pan, giving the mole a smoky flavor. The ingredients are pureed with broth or cooking liquid reserved from the braised meat; skimmed, of course. With planning, the times to prepare the parts can overlap, or prepare ahead and assemble.

VARIETY: Combine chile peppers. Raichlen suggests: 4 guajillo, 2 ancho, 2 pasilla, plus 1 chipotle (or sweet, savory, hot, and smoky). Wear plastic cloves when handling chiles. The ancho gives the mole its characteristic flavor. Roast peppers in a well-vented room.

1. BRAISING THE MEAT (90 mins). Trim the pork loin of all visible fat and cut into 1+1/2-inch pieces. In a large saucepan over high heat, combine the pork and 10 cups water. Season with salt and pepper. Bring to a boil, skimming off any fat or foam that rises to the surface. Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer, skimming occasionally, for 40 to 60 minutes, or until tender. Set a strainer in a large bowl. Drain the pork in a strainer and RESERVE the cooking liquid (there should be at least 5 cups; skim).

2. ROASTING THE PEPPERS AND REHYDRATING PEPPERS WITH FRUIT (60 mins). Stem the peppers. Tear in half and remove and discard the seeds. Heat a large nonstick skillet over medium high heat. Add the chile peppers and dry-pan roast for 20 minutes per side, or until fragrant and toasted.

(Alternatively, you can roast the chile peppers under the broiler, or outdoor grill.) Transfer to a medium bowl. Add the apricots, raisins, and hot water. Let soak until soft, 30 minutes. Drain. Chop apricots.

3. PREPARING THE REMAINING INGREDIENTS FOR THE SAUCE. (15 mins) Heat the skillet to medium-high; dry-pan roast the tomatoes, turning occasionally, for 8 minutes, or until charred and blistered. Transfer to bowl of food processor fitted with metal blade.

*Dry-pan roast the tomatillos, onions, and garlic, turning occasionally, for 8 minutes, or until charred. Transfer to the food processor.

*Tear the toast into 1-inch pieces and add that to the processor.

*Dry-pan roast the almonds and peanuts. Cook, stirring, for 2 minutes, or until toasted and brown. Transfer to the processor.

*Dry-pan roast the sesame seeds, stirring, 2 minutes, or until toasted.

Transfer all but 1 tablespoon of the sesame seeds to the food processor.

4. PUREE: Add the chile pepper and fruit mixture, oregano, thyme, anise seeds, 1/2 teaspoon black pepper, and cloves to the food processor. Puree the mixture until smooth, adding up to 1 cup of the reserved cooking liquid (from the pork). Expect about 1+1/2 cups puree.

5. STEW (30 mins): Heat oil in a large deep nonstick skillet over medium heat. Add the chile-pepper puree, cinnamon stick, avocado leaf (if using).

Cook and stir for 5 minutes, or until thick and fragrant. Stir in the honey, cocoa and about 4 cups of the reserved cooking liquid. Simmer, stirring often, for 10 minutes, or until thick and flavorful. Stir in the pork and simmer for 10 minutes, or until the pork is tender and the sauce is flavorful. Adjust seasoning; thin gravy with more cooking liquid if necessary.

6. To serve, remove the cinnamon stick and avocado leaf. Serve hot, garnish with remaining seeds.

SERVING SUGGESTIONS: Warm, fresh flour tortillas and/or rice and/or chopped salad.

VARIATION: Replace the pork loin with 2 pounds skinless boneless chicken or turkey breast.

ANCHO - dried poblano chile. Large (3 to 4 inches long and 2 to 3 inches wide), flat, reddish-black in color and wrinkled with a prune, the ancho has earthy-fruity flavor with hints of coffee, tobacco and dried fruit.

Its relatively mild (not as hot as cayenne). Its essential for Mexican mole sauces.

CHIPOTLE - is a dried, smoked jalapeno. Short and green when fresh, it turns purple and wrinkled with dried. Usually sold in a tomato-bbq sauce called adobo. Widely used in salsas, dressings and moles.

GUAJILLO - is available dried. Long (4 to 6 inches), slender, smooth-skinned, reddish brown with a sweet, mild flavor. Very common chile. Used in soups, moles, salsas, and spicy pastes. Milk (like paprika pepper).

PASILLA - Long (6 inches), pointed, reddish-black, wrinkled, very hot.

When dried may be called chilaca. Usually both fresh and dried are called pasilla. Used for its heat and complex flavors: both sweet and slightly bitter with hint of licorice and raisins.

AVOCADO LEAF - hints of licorice. Omit or substitute anise extract; or use additional anise seed in the mole.

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