Instructions: For a sweet sushi dish that replaces rice with crisp fruits and vegetables, try Juliano Brotmans portabella and papaya nigiri, from his "Raw: The UNcook Book" (ReganBooks, 1999, $35).
This recipe makes two pieces, enough to serve one person as an appetizer.

Multiply as needed. To make four servings, plan to buy one each of the fruits and vegetables.

To assemble, lay a strip of nori on a dry, flat surface. In the center of the strip, place 1 wedge each of avocado, mushroom and papaya on top of each other so that they form a cross with the nori strip.

On that, stack 2 slices of horseradish, 1 slice of apple, and 2 slices each of cucumber and carrot.

Add four halves of chives, then wrap the end of the nori sheet tightly around the ingredients, such that it resembles a bundle of sticks. Seal the sushi wrap by lightly wetting each end of the nori strip and pressing them together.

Serve as is, or sprinkle very lightly with soy sauce.

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