Instructions: 4 SERVINGS OVO-LACTO

Make these griddle cakes in the early spring, when tender shoots of green garlic appear in the farmers markets. If green garlic isnt available, you can substitute leeks. The potatoes are precooked, so the skillet or griddle top needs very little oil and the cakes cook quickly. Keep the first batch of cakes warm in a low oven while you make the remaining cakes.

Cook potatoes in large pot of boiling water until still slightly firm and nor completely cooked, about 20 minutes. Drain, reserving a little cooking water to moisten skillet for sauteing green garlic. When cool enough to handle, peel potatoes. Using largest hole of box grater or shredding disc of food processor, grate potatoes. Place potatoes in large bowl and set aside.

In medium skillet, heat olive oil over medium heat. Add green garlic and large pinch of salt and pepper. Cook until tender, adding enough reserved potato cooking water to prevent sticking, about 5 minutes. Add to potatoes along with 1/2 teaspoon salt and pinch pepper. In small bowl, beat together egg and 2 tablespoons creme fraiche; add to potatoes. Stir in cheese and flour and mix well. Form into 1/2-inch-thick cakes, 3 to 4 inches in diameter; you should have 12 to 16 cakes.

In large skillet or griddle pan, heat 1 tablespoon vegetable oil over medium heat. Add cakes in batches and cook until crisp and golden, turning once, 4 to 5 minutes per side. Add more oil as needed. Drain cakes on paper towels. Serve with a generous spoonful of creme fraiche.

Madison and Edward Espe Brown.

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