Instructions: Cook potatoes in salted water for 30 minutes, or until tender. Drain. Peel potatoes while still warm, and cut into slices approximately 1/4-inch thick. Place in salad bowl.

In another bowl, combine salt, pepper, vinegar, consomme, and wine. Mix until salt is dissolved. Add tarragon, parsley, and oil. Mix well. Pour over potatoes. Toss gently but thoroughly until all liquid is absorbed. Serve while still warm, or cold.

Comments: Few Americans who have tasted potato salad in France and found it delicious would guess of what ingredients the dressing is made. The use of wine and consomme in potato salad is so unexpected that, when they are told, they think it is just a trimming, and unessential.

On the contrary, it is very important. Potatoes absorb the flavoring of the seasoning when they are still warm - otherwise they get a "cold potatoes" taste which pierces through the dressing.

The problem is that when warm, potatoes absorb oil so well that they become oily and lose the right consistency. Wine and consomme dilute the oil and vinegar, keep the smoothness of the potatoes, and add their own flavors which go perfectly with potatoes.

The best temperature at which to eat potato salad is lukewarm. It may also be eaten cold, but is never kept in the refrigerator.

Suggested Wine: A light red wine; chilled dry white wine; or a rose wine.

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