Instructions: Allow time to cook and cool the potatoes.

1. POTATOES: Place the potatoes in a single layer in a saucepan. Cover with water, add salt to taste, and bring to a boil over high heat. Cook until nearly cooked through but still firm in the center, about 15 minutes. Drain. When cool, cut into thin slices; set aside.

2. Meanwhile, peel the CELERY ROOT; cut into thin rounds. Bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil. Add the lemon juice and celery root and cook until tender, about 10 minutes. Drain, reserving 1/4 cup of the cooking liquid for the gratin.

3. SAUCE: In a large skillet, heat the oil over medium-high heat until hot but not smoking. Add the tomatoes and garlic; season with salt and pepper.

Simmer for 5 minutes. Add the creme the reserved celery root cooking water. Stir to blend. Remove from the heat.

4. PREHEAT the oven to 400F degrees.

5. GRATIN: Butter a large gratin dish. Layer the sliced potatoes in the dish. Sprinkle with half the cheese. Arrange the celery root in a layer.

Season with salt and pepper. Spoon the tomato sauce over all. Sprinkle on the remaining cheese. Bake, uncovered, until golden brown, about 40 minutes. Serve immediately.

PREP: 2 hours. Cook: 1 hour.

POTATO GRATINS ARE NEW. Originally, gratins were made with herbs, with Swiss chard, or with cardoons, the thistly vegetable from Lyons and Provence. It was only in the 18th century that gratins were made with potatoes.

CELERI RAVE (CELERIAC, CELERY ROOT) is generally grated and served in a slaw-like salad called celeri remoulade. This combination of celery and potato is innovative. - Recipe from BISTRO COOKING by Patricia Wells

TIP - If you do not want to use evaporated milk, substitute pureed celery root thinned with skim milk.

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