Instructions: Cover even mundane ingredients with a golden crust, tender biscuits or swirls of buttery mashed potatoes, and they are seemingly transformed into a one-dish feast.

Pierce the topping, and the seductive aromas of rich stewed meats and vegetables that escape can unleash shivers of anticipation and dreams of homey comfort before a single bite is taken.

Well, perhaps not quite that dramatic. But, still, most of us have fond potpie memories.

One friend still swoons decades later at thoughts of her Southern grandmothers flaky lard-based pastry over succulent cubed chicken, carrots and potatoes.

For many Americans growing up in the 50s, the standard versions were Swanson & Sons frozen chicken, turkey and beef pies.

While still available for under a dollar each, they have been joined by many refined variations in supermarkets and even upscale restaurants.

It is no wonder their popularity endures. Potpies appeal on many levels: Comfort is just the first. Served in or directly from the baking dish, readily adapted to personal tastes, and easily prepared in advance, they fulfill our desire to cocoon, to stay home with friends and family and share a relaxing, satisfying meal.

Even when made with luxury ingredients, theyre rarely pretentious. Breaking a crust together is like sharing bread: Its primal communion.

Old-fashioned classics, such as Marion Cunninghams chicken potpie in the revised "The Fannie Farmer Cookbook," recall kinder, simpler times.

They still please us. Yet, modern, inventive versions inspired by global cuisines and contemporary ingredients can produce similar results, even some that are cutting-edge fusion in style.

Some potpies are large enough to feed eight; others are made for an individual serving. They may have double or single crusts. But for any pastry-enclosed pot pie, a good crust is essential to its success.

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