Instructions: Bring water, 1/4 cup of the sugar and prunes to boil. Simmer 15 minutes. When partially cooled, add Armagnac, cover and set aside.

Cream egg yolks and remaining 1 1/4 cups sugar in mixing bowl. Scald milk in medium saucepan. Add 1 cup hot milk slowly to egg-sugar mixture, stirring constantly, then return to saucepan. Cook over low heat, stirring, until mixture thickens, about 3 to 4 minutes.

Strain into bowl. Stir in cream. Chill 1 hour. Place in ice-cream maker and follow manufacturers directions. When ice cream is done, swirl in prune-Armagnac mixture.

This recipe yields 12 to 14 servings.

Comments: California prunes come largely from a traditional French variety of plum tree called the Prune dAgen. Here Nick Coe, chef of Nicks, a year-old patio restaurant in South Pasadena, gives local prunes a rich, cool and classic Gallic treatment.

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