Instructions: Every March, around St. Patricks Day, it seems an extraordinary number of Americans claim theyre Irish. The fact is, its not just hyperbole.

More than 20 percent of the United States population really does have Irish blood running in its veins.

The Irish are a garrulous folk, given to long-winded debates at the drop of a hat on just about any subject from politics and religion to how one should brew a pot of tea. Theres one thing, however, on which just about every Irish man and woman will concur: One of the best places to meet and swap a tale or two is the local pub, or "public house."

It must be true. According to Bushmills Irish Pub Guide, there are 11,000 pubs scattered about Ireland. The Irish have been brewing and distilling potent potables forever.

St. Patrick brought his own brewer to Ireland, but it was hardly necessary.

By the time he arrived, the native Celts had been mixing up a beer called

"coirm" for several thousand years.

When the Normans took over, they instituted regulations to control brewing.

Only women were allowed to make ale, and although men owned the ale houses, women operated them. They offered customers oysters, smoked salmon and soda bread as well as flagons of frothy ale. Because it was used mostly for medicinal purposes, its Latin name was "aqua vitae" or "water of life." A visit to any Irish pub will show that while whiskey is popular, but its a properly pulled pint of rich, dark Guinness topped with a collar of thick, creamy foam thats the drink of choice.

On New Years Eve 1759, Arthur Guinness took possession of an old brewery located at St. James Gate in what had been Dublins medieval walled city.

With understated Irish optimism, Guinness had negotiated a 9,000-year lease on the property for an annual sum of 45 pounds sterling. He also received free use of all the water hed ever need from the River Liffey.

When Arthurs black beer took off like a rocket, the city fathers realized their dreadful mistake. A sheriff attempted to close the waterline, but Arthur appeared brandishing a pickax and hurling a volley of Irish curses.

After a court battle that lasted two decades, a compromise was reached, and Guinness became not only Irelands favorite brew.

Always bastions of hospitality, the local pub is now frequented as much for its grub as its brew. This is especially true outside the major cities; regional specialties and authentic country cooking showcase Irelands superb seafoods and meats, luscious cheeses and legendary breads.

All along the coast, youll find heaping bowls of succulent steamed mussels.

Around Galway, plates of sweet, plump oysters are not to be missed. In Counties Cork and Kerry, its the cheese youll want to be tasting.

Dublins the place for "coddle," a savory mix of potatoes, onions and spicy pork sausages; and "crubeens," the traditional pub snack of jellied pigs trotters.

Nearly every establishment across the length and breadth of the island offers its own versions of creamy vegetable soup, oak-smoked salmon, warm brown bread and lemon tarts. and when the menu reads Irish stew or cabbage and bacon, rest assured, its the kind some Americans grandmother used to make.

Facsimiles of traditional Irish pubs are springing up all over the U.S. And while its unlikely that theyll be serving mead or Irelands fabulous pub grub, its certain theyll have on hand a selection of fine Irish whiskeys and ales, a tap thats pouring Guinness, and plenty of those true treasures - camaraderie and conversation - especially on St. Paddys Day.

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