Instructions: A number of my cooking students report that this spicy pumpkin roll has replaced pumpkin pie at their house. Dont be nervous about rolling up the cake - it is very flexible, and if for some reason it does crack, the whipped cream garnish will cover any blemishes. Be sure the hazelnuts are very finely chopped

(the best way is to pulse them in a food processor, being careful that they dont turn into hazelnut butter) so they can be rolled up with the roulade.

To make cake: Position a rack in the top third of the oven and preheat to 375 degrees. Lightly butter a 10-by-15 inch jellyroll pan.

To line the bottom and sides of the pan, cut a 12-by-16 inch piece of parchment or wax paper. At each of the 4 corners, cut a diagonal slash about 2 inches long. Fit the paper into the pan, folding the cut ends over each other at the slashed parts to form neat corners. Lightly butter and flour the paper, tapping out the excess flour.

In a large bowl, using a hand-held electric mixer set at high speed, beat the sugar and eggs until light in color and texture, about 3 minutes. (The mixture should form a thick ribbon that falls back on itself when the beaters are lifted about 2 inches from the bowl. It must be stiff enough to support the weight of the dry ingredients.) Stir in the pumpkin and lemon juice.

Sift the flour, cinnamon, ginger, baking soda, nutmeg, salt and cloves onto a piece of wax paper. With the mixer on low, gradually beat in the flour mixture, scraping the sides of the bowl as needed. Spread the batter evenly into the prepared pan, being sure to reach into the corners. Sprinkle the batter with the 3/4 cup hazelnuts.

Bake until the center of the cake springs back when lightly pressed with a finger, about 15 minutes. Sift powdered sugar over the top of the cake.

Place a clean kitchen towel over the cake, then top with baking sheet.

Holding the baking sheet over the cake, turn the cake upside down and invert it onto the towel of the baking sheet. Carefully peel off the paper. Place the paper back on the cake. Using the towel as an aide, roll up the cake and cool completely.

To make filling: In a medium bowl, using a hand-held electric mixer at medium speed, beat the cream cheese, butter and vanilla until combined. Gradually beat in the powdered sugar until smooth.

Unroll the cake and discard the paper. Spread the filling evenly over the cake and sprinkle with the crystallized ginger. Reroll the cake (you wont need to use the kitchen towel) and wrap in plastic wrap. Refrigerate until the filling is firm, at least 1 hour. (The cake can be refrigerated for up to 2 days.)

To make spiked cream: In a chilled medium bowl, using a hand-held electric mixer set at high speed, beat the cream, powdered sugar, rum and vanilla until stiff. Transfer to a pastry bag fitted with a large open star tip, such as Ateco No. 5.

Transfer the roll to a long serving platter. Garnish the cake with swirls of the whipped cream and sprinkle with the hazelnuts and crystallized ginger.

To serve, cut the cake diagonally into thick slices.

Make-ahead: Bake and fill the roulade up to 2 days ahead; cover tightly in plastic wrap and refrigerate. Garnish with the spiked cream just before serving.

Note: To toast hazelnuts, spread shelled nuts in dry skillet and cook over medium heat, stirring, about 10 minutes or until skins crack. Be careful not to burn. To remove skins, rub warm nuts with a rough cloth.

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