Instructions: PURCHASING

For carving: Large, ribbed, orange pumpkins sold by the ton around Halloween are usually for carving only. Variously called Jack-o-lantern, Cinderella, Funny Face and Big Max, they are all edible but lack the fine texture and deep flavor of smaller pumpkins grown for cooking. However, there are individual exceptions.

For cooking: Look for small 3-pound, to large, 12-pound pumpkins cultivated for kitchen use, with more and firmer flesh, smaller seed cavity and better flavor. There are also mini pumpkins, weighing between 4 ounces to 6 ounces, called Jack-Be-Little and Munchkin pumpkins, that are sweet and delicious.

Farmers markets carry several varieties of cooking pumpkins, going under names such as New England Pie, Spirit Hybrid, Sugar Pie, Tricky Jack, Triple Treat and Large Cheese. More than 30 varieties exist although most markets carry only a few. Skins may be orange, variegated green, yellow, white or cream. Some are ribbed, and others are smooth. They can be round or oblong. Your best source of information is a knowledgeable produce person or pumpkin farmer.

Quality check: Look for pumpkins with hard skins and no sign of softness. Pumpkins should be heavy for their size, and have a stem 2 to 3 inches long.

Season: Depending on where you live, pumpkins may be available in late August through late December.

STORING AND HANDLING
Store in cool, dry, well-ventilated place (45 degrees to 50 degrees), resting off the ground on paper-lined shelves, not touching each other. For lack of a suitable garage or root cellar, purchase only as much pumpkin as you will use in two to three weeks. A wicker basket is a good storage container.

Cut pieces of pumpkin will keep, wrapped and refrigerated, about three to four days.

PREPARATION
Pumpkin can be baked, steamed, boiled, microwaved, stewed, braised, sauteed and deep-fried. It can also be frozen in pieces and as puree.

To cut end peel raw pumpkin, balance pumpkin on side, stem end facing away. Use large French chef knife, blade point toward stem, handle toward you. Hold knife by handle, keeping fingers of both hands sway from blade. With rubber or wooden mallet or hammer securely padded, rap firmly on knife blade near handle until you drive it into pumpkin, splitting it in half. Scoop out seeds and fibers and discard. Then halve and/or quarter pumpkin using same technique. To peel, cut pieces into narrow strips. Pare with sharp paring knife. Chop slices into desired size and shape.

To freeze puree, put in airtight plastic bags or containers with expansion room and freeze. To freeze pieces, seed, peel and chop into chunks or slices. Blanch briefly in boiling water, plunge into cold water, then drain. Pat dry. Place in air-tight containers with expansion room. Chill, then freeze.

YIELD
3/4 pound of raw pumpkin, seeded and cleaned but not peeled yields about 1 cup puree when cooked. 1 1/2 pounds raw pumpkin, seeded and peeled, yields about 3 cups diced flesh.

Pumpkins are high in vitamin A (52.000 International Units per cup). low in sodium and calories. A half-cup serving cooked has less than 60 calories.

PUMPKIN UNDERSTUDIES
When true pumpkin is not available or out of season, substitute winter squash, listed in order of most pumpkin like flavor and texture: buttercup, golden nugget, carnival and butternut.

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