Instructions: Drop the thinly sliced leeks (tender green parts as well as white) into 1/2-inch fast-boiling salted water. Cook until very tender. Save the cooking liquor. Whizz the leeks to a smooth, pale green puree. Season, enrich with knobs of butter and thin with a little of the cooking liquor if liked. Serve garnished with a bouquet of green coriander and triangles of fried bread. Add some soft-boiled eggs for a quick vegetarian supper.

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