Instructions: Wittenberg wrote: "Here is some information on quince that I got from of THE SAVORY WAY and restaurant chef." Madison wrote: "Quinces are, for me, the queen of fall fruits.

"Quinces are intensely fragrant, with a perfume like a mingling of pears and apples. Your farmers market may be your best bet for finding this golden fruit. It lasts for a long time and once you have some quince compote on hand you will be happy to discover its many uses.

"The quince is a marvelous, ancient fruit that is found in many parts of the world, from the Mediterranean to Northern Europe, to South America, the U.S., Mexico and onward. Closely related to apples and pears, the quince looks something like a combination of the 2-like a lumpy, pear-shaped apple with a golden skin, which is sometimes covered with a soft down."

"The best thing about the quince, though, is its perfume, which is rich and heady, suggestive of narcissus as well as pears and apples. A single ripe quince placed on a bureau can do wonders for a room as well.

"A properly matured quince will be a rich golden hue and very perfumed.

Unfortunately most commercial quinces are picked too green so they never develop the color and perfume they should have. Look in farmers markets for the real thing. You can also find quince trees in peoples yards, for the fruit stays on in the fall, long after the leaves have dropped, making them easy to spot.

"Most people dont know what to do with them and can be persuaded to part with a few for the asking." "Unlike apples and pears, quince must be cooked. Eat it raw, and your mouth will pucker. But cooked, it is quite versatile and delicious. Since it is full of pectin, it lends itself very well to the making of preserves, but can also be cooked with meat and fish

(as in Moroccan recipes) and is wonderful poached in a syrup spiced with cinnamon and clove. Once poached, it turns a luscious shade of pink and can be served by itself, with cream cheeses, in a compote, or with apples and pears in pies, tarts and other dishes.

"Quinces are usually peeled before cooking. The flesh = Reply

JAMES KILGORE Time: 9:34 AM is dense, but breaks easily, so care must be taken in handling them if retaining the shape is important.

"If fresh quinces are handled carefully and not bruised, they should last for months. Poached in a heavy syrup, they will keep very well for a month or 2 refrigerated." From THE SAVORY WAY by Deborah Madison. New York:

in rec.food.cooking.

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