Instructions: Tried at dinner club, 5/20/00. Really excellent. Very rich but tartness of rhubarb offset that nicely. Very well received. Easy to make.

For the puree:
In a small saucepan over medium heat, combine the rhubarb, water and both sugars. Bring the mixture to a simmer. Simmer, stirring occasionally, until the rhubarb is softened and beginning to fall apart, 12 to 16 minutes.

Remove the pan from the heat and set aside to cool slightly. (The rhubarb mixture may be covered and refrigerated until needed. About 1 hour before using, remove the rhubarb mixture from the refrigerator.)

For the creme brulee:
Preheat the oven to 300 degrees. Have 6 ovenproof 6-ounce ramekins or miniature souffle dishes ready.

In a 2 1/2-quart pot over medium heat, heat the cream just until it begins to simmer. Remove the pan from the heat immediately. Set aside to cool until warm to the touch but no longer hot.

Meanwhile, in a medium bowl, whisk together the egg yolks, whole eggs and sugar until slightly thickened. Slowly whisk a small amount of the cooled cream into the egg mixture. (This will warm the yolks and prevent them from curdling.) Whisking constantly, slowly drizzle the remaining cream into the egg-yolk mixture. Strain the custard mixture through a fine sieve into another bowl. Add the vanilla and whisk to combine.

Divide the rhubarb puree evenly among ramekins, spooning about 2 tablespoons of the puree into each of the cups. Carefully spoon the custard mixture over the rhubarb. Place the ramekins in the ovenproof baking dish and transfer it to the preheated oven. Carefully pull out the oven rack a few inches and fill the baking dish 1/3 to 1/2 full of hot water.

Reduce the heat to 250 degrees and bake the custard until it is set but still quivering when gently shaken, about 1 hour. Carefully remove the cups from the water bath. Set aside to cool to room temperature.

Cover the ramekins with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 6 hours or up to 2 days. (The texture will change dramatically with chilling.)

Preheat the broiler. Using a paper towel, blot any moisture that has accumulated on the top of the custards. Sprinkle the brown sugar evenly over the top of the custards. Transfer the custard cups to a baking sheet. Broil as close as possible to the heat source until the sugar melts and caramelizes, 2 to 3 minutes. Watch the custards carefully; they will brown quickly. Remove from the heat; as soon as the sugar has hardened, serve immediately.

Marcy Goldman, a food writer living in Montreal, can be reached at www.betterbaking.com.

NOTES : Hidden beneath this brown-sugar-crusted custard is a surprise: tart, rosy rhubarb.

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