Instructions: Melt 1 or 2 tablespoons of butter in a large, deep skillet over medium heat. Add the mushrooms, sprinkle them lightly with salt and pepper. Cook until tender, about 3 minutes. Remove the mushrooms and keep them warm.

Melt the remaining 2 tablespoons of butter in the pan over medium-low heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until it is soft but not brown, about 7 minutes. Add the garlic and rice and cook, stirring, until the grains turn milky white and are coated, about 2 minutes.

Add the broth, bay leaf, thyme and pepper to taste. Add salt to taste; if using water or unsalted broth, add 1 teaspoon at this point. Stir once and cover. Cook over low heat without stirring until the rice is just tender, about 18 minutes (If using brown rice, simmer for 40 minutes); taste a few grains to check.

Let the rice stand, covered, for 10 minutes. Discard the bay leaf and thyme sprig. With a fork, fluff the rice lightly and stir in the mushrooms and chopped chives gently. Taste and adjust the seasoning.

Serve garnished with thyme sprigs or whole chives, if desired. You can refrigerate pilaf for 2 days in a covered container. It keeps hot for about 30 minutes and reheats well. Warm it uncovered in a lightly buttered shallow baking dish in a 300-degree oven or heat it in the microwave.

This recipe yields 4 to 6 servings.

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