Instructions: Makes 2 1/2 cups. VEGAN

A mouthful of tomatillo salsa transports you straight to Mexico. It is the gustatory essence of the country-a gleaming contour of fresh green spiciness, herbal perfume and zest. Ripe tomatillos are similar in appearance to green tomatoes, except for their papery husks that are easily removed.

Lay tomatillos on baking sheet and place 4 inches below very hot broiler. When tomatillos blister, blacken and soften on one side, about 5 minutes, turn and roast other side. Cool completely on baking sheet before handling.

Roast chiles and garlic on ungreased griddle or in heavy skillet over medium heat, turning occasionally, until blackened in spots and soft, 5 to 10 minutes for the chiles and 15 minutes for the garlic. Cool, then pull stems from chiles and peel garlic.

Scrape roasted tomatillos (and any juices that have accumulated) into food processor or blender along with roasted chiles and garlic. Pulse machine until mixture is reduced to a coarse puree.

Scrape salsa into serving bowl, then stir in 1/4 to 1/2 cup water, depending on desired consistency. Scoop onion into strainer; rinse under cold water.

Shake off excess water and stir into salsa, along with cilantro. Taste and season with salt and sugar as needed.

Makes 2 1/2 cups.

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