Instructions: Preheat the oven to 180C/350F/Gas Mark 4 (a little less for a convection oven).

Salt and pepper the lamb shanks (or mutton chunks) all over then heat the oil in a wide casserole pan and brown the meat on all sides.

Remove from the heat take the meat out of the pot place the onion slices across the bottom then pop the meat back on top.

Sprinkle the spices over everything tuck the pieces of orange peel the dates and the rosemary sprigs around the meat then dust with the sugar.

Pour in enough stock or water to just cover the onion layer (season again if using water).

Sprinkle the saffron threads (if using) into the pockets of juice.

Cover the pot bring to a bubble on the hob then place in the oven and leave it to simmer for 2 1/2 hours.

Meanwhile slice the baking potatoes into fine round discs.

Once the meat is cooked (and at this stage it will sit happily in the fridge for two or three days) you can finish it off in various ways.

Divide the lamb between individual baking dishes sitting each shank so that the bone projects skyward.

The squash is then slotted in around each shank the onion and the juices from the pan are added and finally the dish is topped with a circle of overlapping potato discs.

The potatoes are brushed with oil and sprinkled with salt and a good grind of pepper then the dish is baked in the oven for a further 45 minutes to 1 hour until the potato is cooked and crisp.

If you want to serve everything from the pot the lamb was cooked in add the chunks of pumpkin between the shanks top with the layer of seasoned and oiled potato (allow the bones to poke through if you like) then cook uncovered for 45 minutes to 1 hour as above. Alternatively drop the potato crust bit altogether: just add the squash and cook covered for a further half hour or so.

The meat and its glorious juices can be mopped up with bread or mash.

Serves 4

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